TBP 235 :: How to Get Better at Climbing by Watching World Cups
In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about what she learns from watching all of the Climbing World Cups and how she uses those vid...
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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
Hosted by Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a weekly conversation with rock climbing's best and brightest. Pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the cl...
Episodes
20 of 250 episodesTBP 234: Thomas Cunningham on Biohacking for Climbing Performance
Back in April, I published an episode with Thomas Cunningham all about how he trains efficiently as a busy dad and ER physician to be able t...
TBP 232: A Roadmap and a Checklist for Sending Route Projects Faster
In this episode, I sat down with Coach Matt Pincus to talk about his infamous "checklist" that he uses when he's projecting a route (or a bo...
TBP 231: Common Sense Energy Systems Training with Alex and Matt
In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how they go about training their clients in the different ene...
TBP 230 :: Alex Stiger on How to Approach the Different Angles of Climbing
Steep Climbing Workshop May 2nd, 2023 Coach Alex Stiger is hosting a 2-hour presentation + Q&A on how to train for steep climbing on the wal...
TBP 229: Thomas Cunningham Climbs 14c as an ER Doc and Father of 3
A couple weeks ago, Sam Elias texted me and said, "Hey. This ER doctor here in Louisville just sent his first 14c... He's SUPER intelligent...
TBP 228 :: Majka Burhardt on Being a Pro Climber while Raising Twins
In this interview I talk with professional ice and mixed climber, Majka Burhardt , about her new book, More . In it, she describes the trans...
TBP 227: How to Stay Motivated (Almost) All the Time with Alex Stiger
Climbing Fitness Breakthrough Series Before we get started, Coach Alex Stiger is hosting a 4-part series all about how to increase your over...
TBP 226: How Bridget Roell Went from 13a to 14a with Coach Matt Pincus
This episode is a bit different in that Coach Matt Pincus is the interviewer/coach and I (Neely) am just in it to introduce Matt and his gue...
TBP 225 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Unlevel Grips for Finger Injuries and Training
In this episode, Dr. Tyler Nelson talks about a small but very effective change to make in your finger training protocol to help you get str...
TBP 224 :: Dr. Jen Dragonette's Psychological Tools for Climbers
This episode is one of the most meaningful episodes I've ever done, and I'll tell you why in a sec. In it, I talked with psychologist Dr. Je...
TBP 223 :: How to Be a Stronger, Better Boulderer
In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how they go about training their clients to be better boulder...
TBP 222 :: Breaking into 5.12 Climbing with Coach Alex Stiger
In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about the most common mistakes amde by climbers who are trying to break into 5.12 climbing. S...
TBP 221: Good Crag Etiquette for Great Climbing Days
In this episode, Coach Matt Pincus and I discuss the extremely important topic of crag etiquette. As more climbers join the sport and crags...
TBP 220 :: Tactics for Sending Long Pumpy Routes with Coach Alex Stiger
In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about the tactics she used to send Silky Smooth, 5.13c (8a+) in the Red River Gorge last week...
TBP 219 :: How David Farkas Changed His Nutrition to Improve His Climbing
David Farkas is a 49-year-old climber who works as the Adult Programming Manager at The Front Climbing Club in Salt Lake City, UT. He's been...
TBP 218: Intermittent Fasting and The Keto Diet for Climbers
In this episode, I talk about the pros and cons of the ketogenic diet and intermittent fasting for climbers. In my sessions with clients I o...
TBP 217 :: Kevin Roet on Climbing Psychology for Optimal Performance
Kevin Roet is a climbing instructor from the UK who's been teaching workshops on climbing psychology for about 7 years now. He recently wrot...
TBP 216 :: Hazel Findlay on Overcoming the Most Common Fears in Climbing
You may have heard me say that I've been doing some mental training coaching with Hazel Findlay this year to help with some fears and mental...
TBP 215: How We've Grown as Coaches Over the Years (Matt, Alex, Neely)
In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how our coaching styles, confidence levels, and tactics with...