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Hosted by Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a weekly conversation with rock climbing's best and brightest. Pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the cl...
In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about what she learns from watching all of the Climbing World Cups and how she uses those vid...
Back in April, I published an episode with Thomas Cunningham all about how he trains efficiently as a busy dad and ER physician to be able t...
In this episode, I sat down with Coach Matt Pincus to talk about his infamous "checklist" that he uses when he's projecting a route (or a bo...
In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how they go about training their clients in the different ene...
Steep Climbing Workshop May 2nd, 2023 Coach Alex Stiger is hosting a 2-hour presentation + Q&A on how to train for steep climbing on the wal...
A couple weeks ago, Sam Elias texted me and said, "Hey. This ER doctor here in Louisville just sent his first 14c... He's SUPER intelligent...
In this interview I talk with professional ice and mixed climber, Majka Burhardt , about her new book, More . In it, she describes the trans...
Climbing Fitness Breakthrough Series Before we get started, Coach Alex Stiger is hosting a 4-part series all about how to increase your over...
This episode is a bit different in that Coach Matt Pincus is the interviewer/coach and I (Neely) am just in it to introduce Matt and his gue...
In this episode, Dr. Tyler Nelson talks about a small but very effective change to make in your finger training protocol to help you get str...
This episode is one of the most meaningful episodes I've ever done, and I'll tell you why in a sec. In it, I talked with psychologist Dr. Je...
In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how they go about training their clients to be better boulder...
In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about the most common mistakes amde by climbers who are trying to break into 5.12 climbing. S...
In this episode, Coach Matt Pincus and I discuss the extremely important topic of crag etiquette. As more climbers join the sport and crags...
In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about the tactics she used to send Silky Smooth, 5.13c (8a+) in the Red River Gorge last week...
David Farkas is a 49-year-old climber who works as the Adult Programming Manager at The Front Climbing Club in Salt Lake City, UT. He's been...
In this episode, I talk about the pros and cons of the ketogenic diet and intermittent fasting for climbers. In my sessions with clients I o...
Kevin Roet is a climbing instructor from the UK who's been teaching workshops on climbing psychology for about 7 years now. He recently wrot...
You may have heard me say that I've been doing some mental training coaching with Hazel Findlay this year to help with some fears and mental...
In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how our coaching styles, confidence levels, and tactics with...
In this episode, Coach Matt Pincus talks about the most common advice he gives to his climbing coaching clients. He finds that he has really...
In this episode, I talk all about what to eat at the crag and the couple days before going to the crag so that you can have all-day energy a...
In this episode, Dr. Tyler Nelson talks about his new insights about the longstanding use of the fingerboard to train finger strength in cli...
In the episode, Coach Matt Pincus talks about the different kinds of "endurance" in climbing, and how to train each of them. We go over the...
This episode is a LITTLE bit different than all my others in that we're going to be talking about training, but for a different species: dog...
New Nutrition and Training Program: Reach Coach Alex Stiger and Neely Quinn are hosting an integrated climbing training and nutrition progra...
Free Masterclass on the 5 Most Common Mistakes in Training and Climbing Next Tuesday we're doing a free, live masterclass on zoom to talk ab...
Allison Vest is a 27-year-old climber who lives in Salt Lake City. She's originally from Minnesota and moved to Canada when she was 7, where...
Work with Matt or Alex as Your Climbing Coach Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger are both experienced climbing coaches who will work with you from...
Erin Ettenger is a 25-year-old software engineer who lives in Seattle, Washington. I asked Erin to be on the show because she uses our Route...
In the episode, Coach Matt Pincus talks about how he trained all winter/spring for his 5.14b project in Wyoming this summer and some mistake...
Katie Lamb is a 24-year-old boulderer out of the Bay area who has proven her abilities over and over with consistent sends of V14 boulders....
In this episode, Tyler explains the most common youth finger injuries, what ages are at highest risk, how to mitigate them, and what to do i...
Dr. Jared Vagy is a physical therapist and he's a climber who's incredibly motivated to help other climbers heal their bodies. In this inter...
6-Week Team Training Program Starts April 18th On April 18th, Coach Alex Stiger's 4th cohort of her Team program will begin! This is a group...
In the episode, Coach Matt Pincus discusses the common issue of not having the energy to execute a programmed session. I'm sure you've been...
TBP 197 :: Lillian Chao-Quinlan, President of Sportrock, on Sending 50 5.13's by the Age of 50 Lillian Chao-Quinlan is a climber in her earl...
Keenan Takahashi is a 30-year-old professional climber who has sent boulders up to V15. Originally from Davis, California, he started out as...
How to Assess and Improve Your Skill Set in Climbing In the episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about how she assesses her clients' and h...
Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger are both experienced climbing coaches who will work with you from anywhere in the world to help you create and r...
Where to start about Bobbi Bensman?? Bobbi has been climbing since 1980 and was basically the Alex Puccio of her time. She was a professiona...
Elyn Lytton is a 68-year-old climber from Colorado who started climbing in her early 50's and is still regularly crushing 5.12's (indoors an...
TBP 191 :: Matt Pincus on How to Navigate Training Options if You're in a Plateau 25% Off Bouldering Program Our Bouldering Training Program...
In this episode, I talk all about how to time your meals and snacks to help your climbing performance, energy levels every day, overall ment...
TBP 189 :: Lucie Hanes- Running and Climbing and Eating Disorder Recovery Lucie Hanes is a 27-year-old climbing coach out of Eagle, Colorado...
About Matt Pincus Matt is a boulderer and a sport climber based out of Wyoming. He splits his time between training at home in Jackson and t...
Matt Samet is the editor of Climbing Magazine, the author of several books, a prolific route developer, and a very strong and dedicated clim...
Dr. Tyler Nelson's New Injury Prevention and Warm-Up Protocol In the episode, Tyler explains how we should be warming up our youth teams (an...
Running for Climbing Fitness: Does It Work? And How to Avoid Common Mistakes In the episode, Coach Matt Pincus and I talk about running for...
TBP 184 :: Carbs for Climbers – How Much, What Kinds, Timing, and Why In this episode, I talk all about carbohydrates and how to use them pr...